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#1 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hildesheim, Germany
Posts: 628
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![]() Being really impressed by the drawings shown here, I want to show some of my art to you guys. As I'm not that good at drawing I decided to take some photos of my painted Warhammer / Warhammer 40k miniatures instead and post them here. Feel free to commend on these pictures, and if someone has tips how to improve my painting skills, I would be glad to hear suggestions.
The first pic is my Warhammer 40k Space Ork Waaaghboss. I love Orks! ![]() Here are some "normal" Space Orks of various types: ![]() From Warhammer Fantasy my Bretonian Standard Bearer: ![]() and a Bretonian Archer: ![]() The miniatures have a height from 1" to 2" and are painted with 'Citadel' acrylic colours. For painting one miniature I need from 5 hrs to 12 hrs, depending on the details and the size of each one. |
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#2 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Leeds, England
Posts: 2,166
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![]() IMO they're a bit 'clean' looking - these guys (especially the Ork) are in the middle of a battle; they should look a bit dirtier! I used to play WH before I realised what a massive waste of all my money it was (played p&p RPG's instead, they're much cheaper) and painting/customising the models was the best part. I spent ages customising my undead army. I always thought custom banners look much better than the crappy stickers they supply, though it is a lot of work, but worth it if you get it right!
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#3 | ||
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![]() I agree with Beef-boy. The Brettonian Standard Bearer would be much better if you dry-brushed his uniform with Skull White along the edges.
As for the Ork, use more colours. When I paint Orks, Goblins, Hobgoblins and so on, I first use Goblin Green as the subcolour, then I ink the entire thing. From then on I use up to 6-7 layers of green - from the darkest black-green to a light yellow-green paint, just to get the skin correct. After that, it is time to paint the rest of the model. Most of my colours are self-made. My best advice to you would be to learn the dry-brushing technique, and to mix your own paint. I'll take some pictures of some of my models when I get back to Norway. From what I can see from your models, you have a lot of skill already. Keep it up
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ViGERP AKA what I have been working on these last couple of years... |
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#4 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hildesheim, Germany
Posts: 628
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
My miniatures have never been into battle (that's to explain their "clean" look LOL ), I only collect and paint some of them. I have a small Space Ork Army (about 500 points), the rest are single miniatures. But a little bit more dirt would surely not suffer. I tried a dirt-effekt on the tires of these vehicles: ![]() And I would really like to see some of your models, Tom! |
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#5 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Leeds, England
Posts: 2,166
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![]() Quote:
Beef-boy? Makes me sound like a superhero sidekick. Maybe Robin's slightly older gay lover... <!--QuoteBegin-Tommyboy My best advice to you would be to learn the dry-brushing technique, and to mix your own paint. [/quote] Inks and drybrushing are the way forward, especially for skin and armour. I had my own mix of ink for skeletons, applied over a bone-coloured base slightly darker than the bone citadel colour then some drybrushing on top - it took hardly any time to do a whole skeleton and looked pretty good. |
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#6 | ||
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![]() Great vehicles!
The tire effect is very good! (You can improve the effect by gluing grass and dirt to the undercarriage of the bikes. Like when you drive off-road, you will discover that a lot of mud is thrown up behind the wheel). Also, I see that you have tried to make the metal look more used, by adding Dwarf Bronze. Great idea! Another tip when you paint metal is to use Black Ink a lot. The ink will go into the cracks, and bring the metal out. That way you will get the details of the plating around the bike more visible.
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ViGERP AKA what I have been working on these last couple of years... |
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#7 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Leeds, England
Posts: 2,166
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![]() Quote:
I had the right-hand Ork vehicle model with a load of customisation at one point for this Ork racing game someone I knew had made up - that was fun. |
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#8 | ||
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Opole, Poland
Posts: 14,276
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![]() The paintjobs are a bit clean, but there is something worse: they look _flat_. Practice more on highlighting/shading.
:evil: Seems I have something to post around this part of the board tomorrow... |
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#9 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Shella, Kenya
Posts: 418
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![]() orc skin tip:
take a green wash after painting with orc green. apply thickly and allow to dry into every change in skin. it gives the skin some texture. |
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#10 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Esslingen, Germany
Posts: 841
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![]() :w00t: i think bobbin has done very nice colorings... i can imagine how difficult it is
to color such figures, and just like with drawing a picture, it needs a lot of patience and a stable hand...!!! ok, maybe some 'dirtier' nuances would have emphasized the touch of reality of these figures even more, but nevertheless this is impressive work - especially the vehicles!! and i must say, i like this new type of art...i mean, up to now, we've "only" had "ordinary" art, but this is something completely new for this forum (plz, don't get my wrong...you know i love the stuff we've assembled so far, but this here delivers a fresh approach, nonetheless!) maybe you could also present some nice battle scenes? |
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